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Whenever compiling a list of London’s finest restaurants, one might expect familiar award-winning establishments. Yet, nestled near the top among these food heavyweights is a unpretentious salonu located in a distant area of north London.

A Shocking Recognition

This small Turkish restaurant, concentrating in the specialties of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been declared the fourth best restaurant in the metropolis by a prominent food magazine. This recognition has left the family totally astonished.

“I am totally astonished,” remarks a owner’s son, alluding to his family’s relentless work that led to their small shop earning such a prominent ranking on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Character of Modesty

The compact space, which was a basic cafe before its conversion into a sought-after destination, has kept much of its original feel. It seats just over 20 people and, aside from the impressive live cooking display, the layout remains essentially unchanged. “It is a small and stocky place,” says the owner.

The Star Creation: Tantuni

However, it’s all down to the food, and this establishment definitely excels. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a simple delight. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is steamed to maintain a moist, juicy texture.

It is then added into a massive pan with flavours and oil, which are mixed in bit by bit. When the meaty mixture heats through, handmade lavaş—a soft bread—is slapped on top to absorb all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are added before the flavourful meat is wrapped neatly inside.

The wrap is usually eaten with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a powerful slap of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, bold onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all together.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The respected food critic labelled this dish “among London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a delight. It is doused in a more modest amount of syrup than found elsewhere, imparting it a richer, more aromatic and not overly sweet flavour.

Outranking the Stars

Interestingly, this unassuming spot has ranked above several renowned three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself close to the summit of the list, just after other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave this place full for less than £25, comparable tasting menus at luxury establishments can start at many times that price.

A Creed of Warmth

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants featured and is situated well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and best food but I do not agree with that,” explains the owner.

“I feel what is crucial is hospitality, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This philosophy is echoed by the list’s editor, who stated that if he was in a role of power, he would “require to have every chef in London come to this spot as a masterclass, to teach them the pitfalls of overcomplication, and to demonstrate what is attainable if you do a few – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Path of Hard Work

Unlike many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food didn’t train at elite restaurants. “I feel truly proud of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

Numerous restaurants need years to find their footing, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its acclaim is due to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum was really tired. She would source produce in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Each item is made by hand; she would manage all of this. She is a solo parent and she had a personal life but her friends would come here to encourage her. She had children and a house to manage as well. Each of these duties made her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he says.

An Recognition for the Community

The restaurant’s success is set to resonate outside its own walls. “In my opinion many people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” concludes the owner, highlighting the broader significance of this gastronomic honour.